Watch Anatomy

A watch is simply a tool used to tell the time. However, over the last century, mechanical watches have evolved and matured to the point that every part of the watch has a name, which allows buyers, sellers, collectors, and manufacturers to easily discuss the specifics of each watch. Knowing these names is invaluable when purchasing a watch because it shows the salesperson that you know what you are talking about and allows you to more easily ask questions and state what you are looking for. Below we explain the different parts of the watch using a vintage 1978 Rolex Submariner ref. 1680.

Hands: the extensions from the center of the dial that tell the wearer the time. Usually, as with this watch, there is an hour, minute and seconds hand. Dress watches traditionally forego the seconds, and there is a type of watch called a GMT (pictured on our homepage under Benji N.’s review) that allows the wearer to track a second time zone by adding a second hour hand that makes a full rotation every 24 hours.

Cyclops/magnifier: the magnifier is built into the watches crystal and allows the wearer to more easily see the date. It is commonly associated with Rolex but other brands such as Panerai, Seiko, and Omega also use the cyclops.

Crown: the crown allows the user to set the time and date. For watches that offer water resistance like the one shown above, the crown screws down into position to prevent water from entering the watch.

Crown guards: often found in “sports watches” or those designed for a particular purpose like diving, crown guards protrude from the case on both sides of the crown to protect this vulnerable part from any damage that may result from a direct hit.

Dial: the “face” of the watch from which the watch derives most of its character.

Markers: the indices on the dial that mark each hour. On newer watches, the markers are usually “applied” with each marker made of metal and attached to the dial. On vintage watches, like the one above, the markers are “painted” on. Markers (and hands) are usually filled with luminous material (lume) so the wearer can see the time in the dark.

Lugs: usually the most overlooked part of the watch, the lugs are the four extensions from the case that hold the bracelet or strap. The lugs’ shape and length will be a big factor in how the watch wears. While case size is the standard measurement for watches, lug-to-lug (i.e. the distance from the top lugs to the bottom lugs) is usually more effective in determining how a watch will wear.

Bracelet: the metal strap that is standard on many watches such as most Rolex and Omega watches. While more bracelets are detachable allowing the wearer to swap it with a leather or fabric strap, non-detachable “integrated bracelet” watches such as the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak have exploded in popularity recently.